@import url('https://fonts.googleapis.com/css2?family=Barlow+Condensed:wght@600;700;800&family=DM+Sans:wght@400;500;600;700&display=swap');
:root{--ink:#133d50;--paper:#f5eedb;--gold:#e5b549;--red:#ba4e33;--muted:#536b70}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:95px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.6 'DM Sans',Arial,sans-serif}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,input,select{touch-action:manipulation}button{cursor:pointer}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,select:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--red);outline-offset:4px}header{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:24px 5%;border-bottom:1px solid #153d5030;gap:25px}.brand{font-weight:800;font-size:27px;letter-spacing:-1.5px;line-height:1.1}.brand span{display:block;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:2.4px;margin-top:9px}nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:30px;font-size:13px;font-weight:700}.nav-shop{border:1px solid var(--ink);padding:10px 16px}.hero{max-width:1500px;margin:auto;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr .9fr;padding:58px 7% 65px;gap:7%;align-items:center}.eyebrow{font-size:11px;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:2px;text-transform:uppercase}.hero h1{font-family:'Barlow Condensed',Impact,sans-serif;text-transform:uppercase;font-size:clamp(62px,6.7vw,108px);line-height:.91;letter-spacing:-1px;margin:30px 0}h1 em,h2 em{font-style:normal;color:var(--red)}.intro{font-size:20px;line-height:1.5}.hero-text{max-width:420px;color:var(--muted);font-size:15px}.actions{display:flex;gap:25px;align-items:center;margin-top:30px;flex-wrap:wrap}.button{display:inline-flex;gap:24px;justify-content:space-between;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:14px 23px;font-size:14px;font-weight:700}.text-link{font-size:13px;font-weight:700;border-bottom:1px solid;padding-bottom:5px}.small-note{font-size:11px;margin-top:22px;color:var(--muted)}.hero-picture{position:relative;padding:12px;background:#fff8e8;transform:rotate(3deg);box-shadow:9px 12px 0 #143d5015;max-width:430px;justify-self:center}.hero-picture img{width:100%;height:auto;display:block}.stamp{position:absolute;right:-29px;top:30px;background:var(--gold);border:2px dashed var(--ink);padding:16px;border-radius:50%;text-align:center;transform:rotate(-16deg);font-size:10px;line-height:1.6}.stamp strong{font:25px Georgia,serif}.picture-label{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:1px;display:block;padding:10px 0 0;text-align:center}.ticker{padding:17px 5%;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);display:flex;justify-content:space-around;gap:20px;font-size:10px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:1.8px}.ticker b{color:var(--gold)}.section{padding:80px 7%;max-width:1500px;margin:auto}.section-head{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:40px;margin-bottom:35px}h2{font:700 clamp(35px,4vw,58px)/1.05 'Barlow Condensed',Impact,sans-serif;letter-spacing:-.5px;margin:12px 0}.section-head>p{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);max-width:360px}.map-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.7fr 1fr;border:1px solid #143d502b;background:#e5e7d5}.map-wrap{position:relative}#map{height:610px;z-index:1;background:#d7e1df}.map-reset{position:absolute;bottom:27px;left:15px;z-index:500;border:1px solid #bbb;background:var(--paper);padding:8px 12px;font-size:12px}.map-pin{background:transparent;border:0}.map-pin span{display:block;width:17px;height:17px;background:var(--red);border:2px solid #fff3da;border-radius:50% 50% 50% 0;transform:rotate(-45deg);box-shadow:1px 2px 3px #0005}.map-pin:focus{outline:3px solid var(--ink)}#selected-town{padding:30px;text-align:center;background:#eae1cb}#selected-town img{height:330px;max-width:100%;object-fit:contain;box-shadow:5px 6px 0 #143d5020}#selected-town h3{font:700 32px 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;margin:12px 0 0}#selected-town p{font-size:14px;margin:8px 0 18px}.map-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:30px;padding:17px 0}.map-bottom label{font-size:12px;font-weight:700}.map-bottom select{padding:8px;margin-left:12px;border:1px solid #143d5040;background:transparent;max-width:190px}.map-bottom small{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);max-width:360px}.diary{background:#e9dfc8;max-width:none}.diary-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:35px}.diary-grid img{width:100%;height:220px;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 57%;margin-bottom:22px}.diary-grid h3{font:700 32px 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;margin:7px 0}.diary-grid p{font-size:14px;max-width:330px}.diary-grid .text-link{display:inline-block;margin-top:10px}.toolbar{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.search-label{font-size:11px;font-weight:700;width:42%}input{display:block;width:100%;background:transparent;border:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding:12px 0;font-size:15px;border-radius:0}.filters{display:flex;gap:6px;flex-wrap:wrap}.filters button,#alphabet button{border:1px solid #143d5033;background:transparent;padding:9px 14px;font-size:12px;color:var(--ink)}button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink)!important;color:var(--paper)!important}#alphabet{display:flex;gap:5px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:25px}#alphabet button{padding:4px 10px}#result-count{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:20px 0}.gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:32px 23px}.poster-card{min-width:0}.poster-card button{padding:0;border:0;background:none;color:var(--ink);text-align:left;width:100%}.poster-card img{display:block;width:100%;aspect-ratio:5/7;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .2s;box-shadow:3px 4px 0 #143d501c}.poster-card button:hover img{transform:translateY(-5px)}.poster-card h3{font:700 26px 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;margin:15px 0 4px}.poster-card p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.5;margin:0 0 8px}.poster-card>a{font-size:11px;text-decoration:underline}.wheel-report{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr;gap:70px;padding:70px 12%;align-items:center}.wheel-report .eyebrow{color:var(--gold)}.wheel-report>div>p:last-child{font-size:14px}.receipt{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);padding:25px 30px;transform:rotate(-3deg);box-shadow:10px 10px 0 #0002;font-family:monospace}.receipt>span{display:block;text-align:center;letter-spacing:4px;font-weight:bold;border-bottom:1px dashed;padding-bottom:12px}.receipt p{border-bottom:1px dashed #143d5044;padding-bottom:8px;font-size:12px}.receipt b{float:right}.receipt button{border:0;background:none;text-decoration:underline;font:inherit;font-size:12px;padding:10px 0}.receipt small{display:block;font-size:10px;min-height:32px}.about{max-width:850px;text-align:center}.about>p{font-size:15px}.about .text-link{display:inline-block;margin-top:25px}footer{padding:35px 7%;border-top:1px solid #143d5040;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;flex-wrap:wrap}footer p,footer>a:not(.brand){font-size:10px;letter-spacing:1px}footer small{flex-basis:100%;font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}dialog{padding:35px;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border:0;max-width:850px;width:90%;max-height:90vh}dialog::backdrop{background:#092b3ede}#close-dialog{position:absolute;right:10px;top:2px;font-size:30px;border:0;background:none;color:var(--ink)}#dialog-content{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:30px;align-items:center}#dialog-content img{width:100%;max-height:75vh;object-fit:contain}#dialog-content h2{font-size:44px}.skip{position:absolute;top:-100px}.skip:focus{top:10px;left:10px;background:white;padding:10px;z-index:9999}.entry{max-width:1050px;margin:auto;padding:60px 7%}.entry-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:50px;align-items:start}.entry-layout img{width:100%}.entry h1{font:700 65px/1 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif}.entry-copy p{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:19px;line-height:1.85}.entry-meta{border-block:1px dashed;margin:25px 0;padding:15px 0;font-size:12px}
@media(max-width:850px){header{align-items:start}nav{gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:end}nav .nav-shop{display:none}.hero{padding:45px 6%;gap:25px}.hero h1{font-size:65px}.intro{font-size:17px}.stamp{right:-10px;font-size:8px;padding:10px}.stamp strong{font-size:19px}.section{padding:55px 6%}.map-layout{grid-template-columns:1.3fr 1fr}#map{height:520px}#selected-town{padding:20px 15px}#selected-town img{height:260px}.gallery{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.wheel-report{padding:50px 7%;gap:35px}.section-head{gap:20px}.diary-grid{gap:20px}.diary-grid img{height:180px}}
@media(max-width:580px){header{padding:20px 6%;flex-direction:column;gap:20px}.brand{font-size:26px}nav{justify-content:start;font-size:12px;gap:22px}.hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding-top:28px}.hero h1{font-size:76px}.hero-picture{width:72%;margin:25px auto 15px}.hero .eyebrow{font-size:9px}.ticker{font-size:9px;text-align:center}.ticker span:nth-of-type(n+2),.ticker b{display:none}.section-head{display:block}.section-head>p{margin-top:20px}.map-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}#map{height:420px}#selected-town{display:grid;grid-template-columns:110px 1fr;gap:15px;text-align:left;align-items:center}#selected-town img{height:auto;width:110px}#selected-town h3{font-size:26px}#selected-town p{font-size:12px}#selected-town .button{font-size:11px;padding:9px}.map-bottom{display:block}.map-bottom small{display:block;margin-top:15px}.diary-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:35px}.diary-grid img{height:230px}.toolbar{display:block}.search-label{display:block;width:100%;margin-bottom:20px}.gallery{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:25px 15px}.poster-card h3{font-size:25px}.wheel-report{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px}.receipt{margin:15px}.entry-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.entry h1{font-size:52px}#dialog-content{grid-template-columns:1fr}#dialog-content img{max-height:48vh}#dialog-content h2{font-size:30px}footer{align-items:start;flex-direction:column}}
.hero>*{min-width:0}
@media(max-width:580px){.hero h1{font-size:clamp(48px,14vw,76px)}.hero-picture{max-width:100%}.intro{font-size:16px}.actions{gap:18px}.map-layout>*{min-width:0}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition:none!important}}
.town-review{margin-top:70px;padding-top:45px;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}.review-intro{color:var(--muted)}.review-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;gap:35px;align-items:start;margin-top:30px}.review-stop{padding:5px 0 22px;border-bottom:1px solid #133d5033;margin-bottom:22px}.review-stop h3,.access-note h3{font:700 28px/1.15 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;margin:8px 0 15px}.local-fact{font-size:14px}.local-fact a{display:block;font-size:12px;text-decoration:underline;margin-top:8px}.trolley-verdict{font:italic 19px/1.6 Georgia,serif}.access-note{background:#e9dfc8;padding:22px}.access-note p,.access-note small{font-size:12px}.trump-card{border:3px solid var(--ink);padding:10px;background:#fff8e8;box-shadow:7px 7px 0 #133d5020}.trump-heading{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:20px;text-align:center}.trump-heading>span{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:2px}.trump-heading h3{font:700 40px/1 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;margin:12px 0;color:var(--gold)}.trump-heading p{font:24px Georgia,serif;margin:8px}.trump-stat{padding:16px 12px;border-bottom:1px dashed #133d5055;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr auto;gap:5px 12px}.trump-stat h4{font-size:15px;margin:0}.trump-stat small{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.trump-stat>strong{font:700 34px/1 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;color:var(--red)}.trump-stat strong span{font-size:14px}.trump-stat p{grid-column:1/-1;font-size:12px;margin:3px 0}.score-key{font-size:10px;padding:5px 12px}.final-verdict{margin-top:35px;border-left:5px solid var(--red);padding:15px 25px}.final-verdict p{font:italic 24px/1.5 Georgia,serif;margin:10px 0}@media(max-width:700px){.review-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.town-review{margin-top:45px}.trump-card{max-width:440px;width:100%;justify-self:center}}
.reading-note{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:-10px 0 30px}.long-dispatch{grid-template-columns:minmax(220px,.8fr) minmax(0,1.2fr);gap:45px}.long-dispatch>img{position:sticky;top:25px}.long-dispatch .entry-copy p{font-size:18px;line-height:1.85;margin:0 0 1.4em}@media(max-width:700px){.long-dispatch{grid-template-columns:1fr}.long-dispatch>img{position:static;max-width:310px;justify-self:center}.long-dispatch .entry-copy p{font-size:18px}.reading-note{margin-top:0}}
.access-note article{border-top:1px solid #133d5030;margin-top:20px;padding-top:15px}.access-note h4{font-size:16px;margin:0 0 8px}.access-note p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.7}.access-note a{font-size:12px;text-decoration:underline}.access-note .access-gap{border-top:1px solid #133d5030;padding-top:20px}.access-note small{display:block;line-height:1.6}
.source-notes summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:700;padding:16px 0;border-block:1px solid #133d5033}.score-access{padding:18px 12px;background:#e9dfc8;margin-top:12px}.score-access h4{margin:0}.score-access p{font-size:13px}.score-access a,.score-access small{font-size:11px}.score-access a{text-decoration:underline}.score-access small{display:block;margin-top:12px}.overall-score{padding:22px 12px}.overall-score>span{font-size:11px;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:1px}.overall-score>strong{display:block;font:700 64px 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;color:var(--red)}.overall-score strong small{font-size:25px}.overall-score p{font:17px/1.6 Georgia,serif}.town-review .review-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr 1.3fr}@media(max-width:700px){.town-review .review-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.verdict-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 170px;gap:35px;align-items:center;margin:25px 0}.verdict-summary{font:21px/1.7 Georgia,serif;margin:0}.verdict-rating{text-align:center;border-left:1px solid #133d5033;padding-left:20px}.verdict-rating>span{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:1px;font-weight:bold}.verdict-rating>strong{display:block;font:700 76px/1.2 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;color:var(--red)}.verdict-rating strong small{font-size:28px}.verdict-rating>small{display:block;font-size:10px}.simple-verdict .score-access{padding:20px 24px}@media(max-width:580px){.verdict-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}.verdict-rating{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid #133d5033;padding:15px 0}.verdict-summary{font-size:19px}}
/* Present complete artwork rather than cropped landscape strips. */
.diary-grid img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:5/7;object-fit:contain;object-position:center;background:#f5eedb;box-shadow:4px 5px 0 #133d5020;margin-bottom:24px}
.poster-card img{height:auto;object-fit:contain}
@media(max-width:850px){.diary-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}
@media(max-width:580px){.diary-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.diary-grid article{width:100%;max-width:390px;margin-inline:auto}.diary-grid img{height:auto}}
/* Scottish field journal: paper, railway tickets and seaside ink. */
.travel-journal{background-color:#f5eedb;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg viewBox='0 0 180 180' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.7' numOctaves='3' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Cpath fill='%23133d50' opacity='.045' filter='url(%23n)' d='M0 0h180v180H0z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}
.travel-journal header{border-top:7px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);margin:0 4%;padding:22px 0}.travel-journal .brand{font-size:33px}.travel-journal nav>a:not(.nav-shop){padding-bottom:4px;border-bottom:2px solid transparent}.travel-journal nav>a:hover{border-color:var(--red);color:var(--red)}
.travel-journal .hero{padding:65px 7% 85px;grid-template-columns:1.15fr .85fr;gap:5%;position:relative}.travel-journal .hero h1{font-size:clamp(72px,7.8vw,118px);letter-spacing:-2px;margin:25px 0;line-height:.88}.travel-journal .hero h1 em{color:var(--ink)}.issue-label{color:var(--red);border-top:1px solid;border-bottom:1px solid;display:inline-block;padding:7px 0;font-size:10px}.travel-journal .intro{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-style:italic;font-size:22px}.travel-journal .button{background:var(--red);box-shadow:3px 3px 0 var(--ink);transition:transform .2s}.travel-journal .button:hover{transform:translateY(-3px)}.travel-journal .hero-picture{transform:rotate(5deg);border:1px solid #133d5044;padding:12px 12px 5px;box-shadow:12px 15px 0 #133d501c;position:relative}.photo-tape{position:absolute;width:100px;height:30px;background:#d9b96ba8;top:-14px;left:36%;transform:rotate(-12deg);z-index:2}.travel-journal .stamp{background:var(--red);color:var(--paper);border:3px double var(--paper);border-radius:50%;width:125px;height:125px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;right:-25px;top:auto;bottom:60px;transform:rotate(-14deg)}.travel-journal .picture-label{font-family:monospace;font-size:9px;padding:12px 0}
.journey-ticket{margin-top:35px;display:flex;gap:14px;align-items:center;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-left:7px solid var(--red);background:#ece0bc;padding:14px 15px;max-width:440px;transform:rotate(-2deg)}.journey-ticket svg{width:55px;flex-shrink:0}.journey-ticket div{flex:1}.journey-ticket span,.journey-ticket small{display:block;font:9px/1.5 monospace;letter-spacing:.3px}.journey-ticket strong{display:block;font:700 23px/1.1 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;margin:5px 0}.journey-ticket>b{border-left:1px dashed;padding-left:13px;font:700 32px 'Barlow Condensed',sans-serif;text-align:center}.journey-ticket>b small{font-size:8px}
.travel-journal .ticker{background:var(--gold);color:var(--ink);border-block:2px solid var(--ink);padding:20px 5%;font-family:monospace;letter-spacing:1px}.travel-journal .ticker b{color:var(--red)}.chapter-number{display:block;font:11px monospace;letter-spacing:2px;color:var(--red);border-bottom:1px solid #133d5040;padding-bottom:13px;margin-bottom:25px}.travel-journal h2{font-size:clamp(43px,5vw,72px);line-height:.98}.travel-journal .map-layout{border:2px solid var(--ink);box-shadow:8px 8px 0 #133d5015}.travel-journal #selected-town{background:#e7d6ae}.travel-journal #selected-town img{transform:rotate(2deg);border:7px solid #fff8e8}.travel-journal .map-reset{border:1px solid var(--ink);box-shadow:2px 2px 0 var(--ink)}
.travel-journal .diary{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-block:8px double var(--paper)}.travel-journal .diary .chapter-number{color:var(--gold);border-color:#f5eedb55}.travel-journal .diary h2 em{color:var(--gold)}.travel-journal .diary .section-head>p{color:#d0d9cf}.travel-journal .diary-grid{gap:40px 30px}.travel-journal .diary-grid article{border-top:1px solid #f5eedb55;padding-top:20px}.travel-journal .diary-grid img{border:7px solid var(--paper);box-shadow:5px 6px 0 #0003;margin-bottom:22px}.travel-journal .diary-grid .eyebrow{color:var(--gold);font:10px monospace}.travel-journal .diary-grid h3{font-size:34px;line-height:1.05}.travel-journal .diary-grid p{color:#d0d9cf}.travel-journal .diary-grid a:hover .text-link{color:var(--gold)}
.travel-journal #collection .section-head{align-items:start}.travel-journal #collection h2{max-width:580px}.travel-journal .toolbar{padding:25px;background:#e8ddc1;border:1px solid #133d5040}.travel-journal .filters button,.travel-journal #alphabet button{border-color:#133d5060}.travel-journal #alphabet button:hover,.travel-journal .filters button:hover{background:var(--gold)}.travel-journal .gallery{gap:40px 25px}.travel-journal .poster-card img{border:6px solid #fff8e8;height:auto;box-shadow:4px 5px 0 #133d5026}.travel-journal .poster-card h3{font-size:29px}.travel-journal .poster-card>a{font-family:monospace;font-size:10px}.travel-journal .wheel-report{border-block:8px double var(--paper);position:relative}.travel-journal .receipt{background:#eadebd;box-shadow:14px 14px 0 #0003;border-top:4px dashed var(--ink);border-bottom:4px dashed var(--ink)}.travel-journal .about{padding-block:90px}.travel-journal .about h2{font-size:clamp(48px,6vw,85px)}.travel-journal footer{background:var(--gold);border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
@media(max-width:1000px){.travel-journal .hero h1{font-size:78px}.travel-journal .journey-ticket{padding:12px 10px;gap:9px}.journey-ticket svg{width:42px}.journey-ticket strong{font-size:20px}.travel-journal .stamp{width:100px;height:100px;right:-15px}.travel-journal .stamp strong{font-size:20px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.travel-journal .hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:50px;padding:30px 7% 60px}.travel-journal .hero-copy{max-width:520px}.travel-journal .hero h1{font-size:clamp(63px,12vw,88px)}.travel-journal .hero-picture{width:75%;max-width:360px;margin:0}.travel-journal .hero .intro{font-size:19px}.travel-journal .hero-text{font-size:14px}.travel-journal .issue-label{font-size:8px}.travel-journal .diary-grid h3{font-size:30px}.travel-journal .toolbar{padding:18px}.travel-journal .gallery{gap:30px 16px}.travel-journal .poster-card img{border-width:4px}.travel-journal .poster-card h3{font-size:25px}.travel-journal .chapter-number{font-size:9px}.travel-journal .journey-ticket{max-width:390px}.travel-journal header{margin-inline:6%}.travel-journal .brand{font-size:30px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.travel-journal .button{transition:none}}
.travel-journal .stamp{padding:8px}.travel-journal .stamp strong{font-size:21px}.travel-journal .entry h1{font-size:clamp(48px,6vw,76px)}.travel-journal .entry-meta{font-family:monospace}.travel-journal .long-dispatch>img{border:9px solid #fff8e8;box-shadow:7px 8px 0 #133d5020}.travel-journal .simple-verdict{border-top:4px double var(--ink)}
@media(max-width:1000px){.travel-journal .stamp strong{font-size:17px}}
html{scroll-behavior:auto}
